Day 12 - Into Burns Country

Longtown to Kirkconnel (route)

It was a strange stay at the K & K Ranch. We were hansomely appointed to a comodious luxury apartment but had to share a bathroom/toilet with the many other guests, mostly single male and extremely uncommunicative. Hill Junior caused great consternation by asking for a bowl of cereal IN ADDITION TO A WHOLE BOWL OF CANNED GRAPEFRUIT SEGMENTS! It was forcibly explained by one of the K's through clenched teeth that it was normally not permitted but that a special dispensation would be granted for cyclits. The cereal bowl and spoon were then grudgingly retrieved from the locked cabinet. The rest of the breakfasting guests cowered in silence munching their stale toast.

Thus nourished we set off and soon crossed the Scottish border at Gretna only stopping to check out a reserve venue for this year's comming nuptial event. We took a coastal backroad along the edge of the Solway Firth with fine views across to the Lake District particulary Skiddaw.
As we worked our way westwards there were also views of Criffel, scene of an epic mountaineering feat by Hill Senior together with Malcolm, Jim and Rufus a few years ago. this peak also gives its name to a locally produced beer.

We were now firmly in Burns country and passed several of his monuments and souvenir shops stocked with his memorabilia.

The Scottish National Trust royally supplied us with tea and cake (coffee & walnut) at Caerlaverock Castle which was owned by the Maxwell family. Despite its claim to be impregnable it surrended several times to approaching English armies. From the castle, we followed the estuary of the river Nith up to Dumfries. This fine city supplies biking equipment to replace items left behind at previous overnight stays and also tasty made to order sandwiches. But its real attraction was a street preacher warning all of the dangers of loose sexual morals.

Other warnings received were of the perils of riding on the A76. Fortunately our knowledgeable guide, Phil Horsley, had described a route that took us on all the minor roads. Indeed as he states 'This was fine wheeling county, low on traffic, wildlife close on hand, wilderness on the horizon and the occasional skirl of bagpipes drifting from upstairs windows'. We can accurately vouch for all except for the bagpipes.

When we reached Keir Mill, the birthplace of Kirkpatrick Macmillan who invented the pedal cycle we reverently, in a mark of respect, ate our sandwiches leaning against somebody's garden wall. Shortly afterwards we entered Penpont whose only pub "The Volunteer" was closed. However close at hand was a welcoming cafe/post office where we were treated to warming tea and scones.

Our guides route took us through the grounds of Drumlanrig Castle which we read is haunted by the ghost of Lady Anne Douglas walking with her head in her hands. From there it was steadily uphill alongside the river Nith now much smaller than at Dumfries. To our expert eyes it seemed an ideal river for trout and salmon. As we rose up the valley we had good views of the Southern Uplands stretching into the distance - this corner of Scotland is entrancingly beautiful and almost unpopulated.

Overall we had another good day, with its contrasts of the Solway Firth, the Nith estuary, the city of Dumfries and the upper Nith valley.