Two Hills And A Thousand Miles

Day 19 - The Final Push

2008-07-09T20:26:00.008+01:00

From Lybster to Thurso via John O'Groats (route)

Had another pleasant B&B (these were booked by Hill Junior, with his nose for quality accommodation), hosted by Andrew and Ann, who run the Croft House, next to the A99 in Swiney, nr Lybster. Andrew is a keen railway enthusiast and is building an outdoor O-gauge track around his garden. If only his garden didn't take up so much of his time, he would have finished it by now. But we were glad to enjoy the fruits of his garden labours, in particular two perfectly ripe strawberries, remarkable for the fact that tasted of something other than supermarket plastic.

After a good breakfast, and no overnight tyre incidents, we set off in a Northerly direction into the teeth of our customary gale. The weather was grey, cold and overcast, but fortunately not raining. We worked our way up through ever increasing bleakness and isolation, with the North Sea on our right, with glimpses of oil rigs in the distance. Morning tea was taken in Wick - the last town of any substance (although it is in fact a Royal Borough).

After Wick, our minds were only on one thing, that of getting to John O'Groats - it started appearing on the road signs - with steadily decreasing mileages - 17, 14, 11, 9, 6... etc. Then finally we crested the hill after Freswick to see, spread out before us, the Pentland Firth and the Orkneys beyond. Alas, we were running out of Britain to cycle over. We did have thoughts of continuing our journey by catching the ferry to the Orkneys, but time pressures meant that we decided to leave this challenge for a later date.

So there was nothing for it but to descend into the grot of John O'Groats with all its tacky touristic commercialism. Had a celebratory pint of 80/- in the Seaview Hotel (should be called the seedy hotel) and three rounds of their finest sandwiches (our ranking: joint worst trip sandwich). We passed several end-to-enders and noticed that they were all hurrying to get away to somewhere else as fast as possible.

After John O'Groats we called in to see the red-haired Wilma who lives in Huna, in a house with fine views of the Pentland Firth. We don't actually know Wilma, she is a friend of a friend (Gill Bullock), so we just stopped by to say hello, and pass on Gill's best wishes to her. In return Wilma passes her regards to Gill.

On the remainder of our journey to Thurso we noticed a strange phenomena. The wind, which had been in our faces for the last five days suddenly was on our backs. We could utilise our top gears, and moving at lightening pace, sped through the various villages on the North coast, including the Castle of Mey, former favourite home of the Queen Mother. So fast did we cycle, that we missed our afternoon tea stop, and arrived in Thurso at the unprecedented hour of 4pm. Our profile shows that today was a fairly flat day, one of our easiest.

We are now mightily relieved to be sitting in a warm pub, contemplating the prospect of several days of non-cycling. It's been a great adventure. We have seen a cross-section of Great Britain and enjoyed ourselves in the process. The weather hasn't been too bad either, in fact we count ourselves lucky to have only been heavily rained-on on 5 of our days. But we're pretty tired just now and need a break. At the moment when we sleep, it's difficult to find a position in bed that avoids stressing aching muscles. Tomorrow we get a chance to relax with an 8 hour train journey back to Edinburgh (in Hill Senior's case 15 hours to Adlington, Cheshire).

According to the gps, the total mileage was 1086, with approx 16,000 metres of climb (see here for complete route)

Day 18 - Through Sutherland into Caithness

2008-07-08T20:12:00.008+01:00

From Dornoch to Lybster (route)

Our stay in Dornoch, courtesy of Isla, was extremely pleasant. We had an excellent night's sleep, and, to date, our best breakfast (from a B&B). Dornoch seems very popular with tourists from across the Atlantic. In fact, one of them, from San Francisco, has taken up residence and runs an Italian restaurant, Luigi's, which served us excellent local fare. The proprietor, being a cyclist himself, arranged double portions of pasta for the two well-honed athletes and supplied advice for the remaining section to John O'Groats. Later, we learned, that Dornoch cathedral was selected by Madonna for the christening of Rocco.

Instead of setting off at 9am, our two highly skilled mechanics fitted the new front dérailleur onto Hill Senior's bike. Some fine tuning may still be required in order to remove the excuse of stopping in order to change gear at the bottom of each hill.

When we did finally start pedaling, we took quiet roads towards Skelbo castle, and around Loch Fleet, with its picturesque mud flats, including lounging seals. In days gone by, there was a ferry to the north side which we sorely missed as it would have obviated a section of the A9.

On joining the A9, immediate havoc was wreaked, in the form of another puncture for Hill Junior's rear wheel (current score: Hill Junior, 4 punctures; Hill Senior, 2 punctures & 1 tyre hernia). Hill Senior pedaled on into the North Easterly wind, oblivious to the chaos behind. Eventually the Hills were reunited at Golspie, and then, back in convoy, proceeded to Brora for morning tea and cake, taken at a roadside table, at a pub, on the edge of the A9. This we enjoyed, in the sunshine, amid the roar of the traffic and the smell of the diesel fumes.

More A9 took us to Helmsdale, passing on the way a well preserved Broch at Cain Liath. The views from the A9 as it weaved its way along the coast were enthralling - blue sea, blue sky (over the sea), mist on the mountains inland. At Helmsdale we sought out the much recommended La Mirage restaurant which served us a gigantic "fish & chips tea", which was too large, even for our appetites.

After lunch, due to the threatening weather and reports of a mini-monsoon battering the rest of Britain, we donned our wet weather gear for the afternoon's vertiginous assaults on the A9 ahead. The combination of stomachs packed to the gunwales and muscles wrapped in waterproof clothing enabled us to exude gargantuan quantities of perspiration. Its also encouraged the sun to come out. In this manner we climbed the Ord of Caithness, a 740ft high wild section, and then negotiated the Berriedale Braes. According to our guide, this has a reputation amongst end-to-enders for causing quivering knees, but not so for these two endurance athletes.

At Dunbeath we encountered that rarity, a tea room, open for business. Run by several charming natives, it offered a very wide selection of cakes, of which we took full advantage. It was then a short section to Latheron (nothing to do with the need to apply creams and ointments to sore posteriors) and then onto our B&B in Swiney, near Lybster.

Our GPS track today includes a missing section (the straight line interpolation) caused by battery failure. We had been using modern batteries with a life of about 6 hours, but had to restock in Fort William, purchasing batteries marketed as "Duracell Special" which must date them to circa-1980.

Day 17 - Across the Firths

2008-07-07T22:58:00.007+01:00

From Foyers to Dornoch (route)

Following our most expensive dinner meal in "portion control" Foyers Bay House (not just a B & B, it's a country house), the breakfast proved equally economical with its quantities and was only alleviated by the spectre of red squirrels gambling across the lawn.

In common with some of the previous days, we discovered at the moment we were setting off that one of our bicycle tyres had decided to leak air during the night. In this case it was Hill Junior's rear wheel, which had been causing us grief the previous day. What with fixing the puncture and a half-hour lie-in (we were not permitted to breakfast before 8.30am) we set off late.

After five good days of weather in Scotland, our good luck broke. Our ride to Inverness was through a persistent drizzle, becoming driving rain, which of course, was into our faces rather than on our backs (in 16 days of riding we can only count one day in which we enjoyed a tail wind).

Hill Junior purposefully rode off ahead at break-neck speed to get his real wheel repaired in Inverness, while Hill Senior dawdled along the edge of Loch Ness, enjoying the low-level misty views, and taking photographs, including one in which the Loch Ness monster can be spotted in the left middle ground by those active members of the wine society and CAMRA.

The two Hills were reunited at the Highland Bicycle Company, Inverness, where Junior's bike was fixed for just a tenner. Bargain. Meanwhile Senior's bike had developed a hernia on its rear wheel - necessitating a new tyre, the old one having become completely threadbare after only 200,000 miles.

Such is the extent to which these bikes are being ridden, yet more equipment failures came to light. Senior's front deraileur has sheared in two, preventing automatic gear changes on the front, so the fallback change mechanism of dismounting and manually moving the chain to a different ring was adopted. We picked up a new super-deluxe deraileur mechanism, but haven't yet had time to fit it.

After all our bike maintenance, we scoured Inverness for tea shops and settled on the Pumpkin Cafe in Inverness station, which served us medium mugs (quite large) of tea and "blissfully blueberry muffins".

We continued our journey by taking the A9 across the Kessock Bridge, acorss the Moray Firth (first of our three Firths today) and then we veered off the A9 into the Black Isle (thanks to a passing Irish cyclist for his informative navigation advice). Spotted a red kite soaring above us. Through ever-increasing rain we made our way to Fortrose where since there was no open pub, we took our lunch in the lee of the Co-op who provided us with some plastic sandwiches and fresh fruit.

After lunch the weather cleared up, the sun was seen again, and we were able to enjoy a spectacular climb up to a radio mast on the highest point of the Black Isle. From here we had good views across the Moray Firth to the Aberdeenshire coast. We then descended into Cromarty where we caught the Nigg ferry. This takes two cars, and has a strange turntable mechanism to rotate the vehicles once on board. The ferry took us across the Firth of Cromarty (second Firth of the day) - it was very picturesque - we saw a crowd being taken out to see the local dolphins.

We enjoyed a quiet run along the edge of Nigg Bay (a RSPB reserve) until we rejoined the busy grand-prix track of the A9. We took the A9 hard shoulder (apart from a brief and worthwhile diversion into Tain) all the way across the Dornoch Firth (third and last of our Firths), and then found a minor road through Cuthill to the town of Dornoch. Or perhaps one should call it a city because it boasts a cathedral? Certainly its a very smart and attractive spot to spend a night.

This is the first of the B&Bs booked by Hill Junior who promised a kind of massage parlour (for cycling muscles) allied with a lycra laundry and a mecca for real ales.

Total mileage today is well into the 60s. You can't see from the graph, but honestly, there was a head wind. Our total mileage so far is just shy of 1000 miles - and yet according to a recently viewed roadsign, we have something like 80 miles to get to John O'Groats in the two days remaining.

Day 16 - Up the Great Glen

2008-07-06T21:45:00.009+01:00

From Fort William to Foyers (route)

This was supposed to be our easy day after yesterday's exertions. Cycling Hill Junior predicted that we would arrive in mid afternoon and spend the rest of the day lazing around reading the Sunday paper but the best plans of mice and men........

So we ate our customary full cooked breakfast and then prepared to set off at our usual 9am. Our hosts (retired police from Hyde, Cheshire married to Brenda from Mobberley) warned us off the forest tracks but we decided to chance it in order to avoid the busy caravan and charabanc laden A82.

We passed through Fort William only long enough to pick up the said Sunday paper and to denude the coffers of the Royal Bank of Scotland. Soon after we met the Caledonian Canal, a wonderfully impressive piece of engineering. Thomas Telford had also thoughtfully provided a cycleway along the towpath which we gladly used. This gave awe inspiring views of Ben Nevis still adorned with patches of snow and equally beautiful views along the Great Glen.

Once Loch Lochy was reached we took the cycleway through the forest ignoring the warnings and driving our cycles to the limit of their capacity. Then after a particulrly rough stony section Hill Junior's back tyre lost all its air. On close inspection he had also suffered two broken spokes. He claimed that this was nothing to do with his weight but rather all the extra gifts he was carrying for his beloved. Puncture repaired we moved on only to suffer another 6 miles later. Fortunately we were close to a cafe near Loch Oich serving excellent cakes and tea which enabled us to recover our spirits, and to psyche ourselves up for the challenge ahead.

Lunch was taken a few miles later on in Fort Augustus which unfortunately has no cycle repair shops. We will need to limp on into Inverness before fixing the broken wheel properly.

Out of Fort Augustus we took the quiet south side of Loch Ness, which necessitated one of the longest climbs of the tour so far, through some very attractive upland loch strewn landscape. The rain threatened and the wind was always against us but we pressed on nurturing our machines, reaching Foyers at about 5pm.

In Foyers there is supposedly an impressive waterfall but this only operates when the hydroelectric system permits.

Day 15 - Up Loch Linnhe

2008-07-05T19:08:00.012+01:00

From Kilmartin to Fort William (route)

Excellent night in Kilmartin, which is quite a lively place despite having a population of less than 100. Apparently this is all to with it being something for a mecca for archeoligists, as it has a rich neolithic (cup & ring) and bronze age past, and was also capital of Dalriada - a kingdom in Scotland, founded by the Irish (see '1066 and all that'). We also visited Kilmartin's churchyard which has some interesting 14th/15th-century engraved slabs.

As with all long days, Hill Senior's equipment suffered a loss of pneumatic form first thing this morning. We cannot understand why this always happens overnight, while in a locked shed, but we didn't have time for a thorough investigation. Instead we replaced the inner tube in record quick time (about 20 mins for us) and trusted to luck.

Today's journey, at 72 miles, is one of our longest. Especially so as the route that we chose in order to have a tail wind (from Lands End to John O'Groats) resulted in a fierce head wind, against which we had to battle with all our strength and aching knees.

After a tough morning, in which we had many excellent vistas of the lochs, we made it into the safe harbour of Oban, where we found a fancy patisserie, too gentile to permit sweaty lycra clad cyclists to sit inside. Instead we sat outside in the freezing North-Easterly wrapping our hands around the cups of tea, and consuming carrot cake and fruit scones. We weren't able to stay long in Oban as we had to press on, but Hill Senior reports that he once took a bath, courtesy of the Calendonian Hotel (despite not being a resident), when his yacht put into port, and he strode purposely through the lobby as if he belonged.

After leaving Oban we crossed Loch Etive on the Connel bridge, with the 'Falls of Lora' rushing out below us. The road wound along the side of Loch Linnhe, giving us spectacular views across to Ardmurchan and Mull. As we passed along the side of Loch Creran, we were pleased to see that the erstwhile railway bridge had been converted for road traffic and leg weary cyclists. Just after the bridge we took our lunch in a recently converted pub, the Creggan Inn. We sat outside with nice views across Loch Creran, munching our baguettes, and rehydrating with SOFT drinks (such is the paucity of real ale establishments).

After Loch Creran we headed further up Loch Linnhe to Ballachulish, encountering on the way a welcome stretch of cycleway under construction, and provided a much need respite from the busy A828. As we rounded the headland we got excellent views up towards Glencoe, and towards Kings House Hotel, a much used staging point for famous West Highland Way walkers.

At Ballachulish, we joined the busy A82 for the first time, with its maniacal boat-towing 4x4s, whose drivers seem to delight in trying to shave off our paintwork as they pass. Afternoon tea was taken in the Hotel Onich. We had clearly rejoined the main tourist drag, as we were able to purchase cream teas with strawberry jam, served on cloth covered tables by a waiter (with a clothes peg over his nose to prevent the Eau d'Hill reaching his sensory organs).

While the rest of the country were being drenched with rain and were agonising over potential delays to the Wimbledon Ladies Singles Final, we enjoyed a mostly rain-free day, only needing to put on our wet weather gear for half an hour right at the end of our day. This was some disappointment to Hill Junior who wanted to test out in full his newly purchased waterproof booties (purchased in Dumfries).

We arrived into Fort William sometime after 5, where we were dissuaded from climbing Ben Nevis by our landlady, Brenda, who explained that today was a practice for a big mountain biking race and that casual climbers were barred.

Overall it was a day of beautiful Western Highland scenery - lots of Loch vistas, with huge mountains rising in the background. Our profile shows that our morning was signifantly more active than our afternoon.

Day 14 - Onto Kintyre and into Argyll

2008-07-04T21:30:00.007+01:00

From Brodick to Kilmartin (route)

Had a good night's stay on the island of Arran, in our most expensive B&B so far (do they run a racket here?). Despite the price, there was no fresh fruit for breakfast, but Hill Senior reports the mackerel coated in oatmeal was delicious.

Feeling full of energy we eshewed the flatter and shorter route to Lochranza, opting instead for a stiff two mile climb across the island to its west coast. We were rewarded with a good run with views across to Kintyre and made Lochranza with plenty of time to spare before our ferry, allowing us to take the opportunity for a cup of tea and slice of lemon and ginger cake from the cafe. Met a local holiday maker who complained of bad weather in the North and admired our bicycles. Meanwhile, another inhabitant kept the grass low at the roadside, seemingly oblivious to tourists.

Our 12 noon ferry (courtesy of CalMac) deposited us on Kintyre just half an hour later, in a seemingly deserted spot. The only road out rose steeply over the wild and beautiful countryside, until we joined the A83 at Kennacraig, where the ferries for Islay depart. Lunch was taken at the West Loch Hotel just short of Tarbert, outside in the glorious sunshine, where Hill Junior consumed a bottle of Orcadian ale to celebrate his arrival back on the mainland.

The A83 took us alongside Loch Fyne, with many fantastic Riviera like views in the fine weather. We turned off the A-road at Ardrishaig, onto the path alongside the Crinan Canal, which cuts across the Kintyre peninsula (a 9 mile canal saving a sea voyage of 130 miles) - this canal now seems to be used mostly by yachts.

Tea was taken alongside the canal at the Cairnbaarn Hotel, in the company of other cyclists, of the Swedish variety. Enjoyed our first Scottish shortbread - excellent! The remaining journey to Kilmartin was across flat bird reserve country in the steadily increasing warmth of the afternoon - we pottered along and arrived at our B & B at the usual time - just before 5pm. Kilmartin is surrounded by neolithic monuments, has some interesting medieval tombstones in its graveyard, but best of all, enjoys a hotel serving real ale.

Overall it was an average-length day, with a bit of climbing to get across Arran and up from the ferry at Clonaig. But apart from that, lots of flat sections alongside Lochs. All in all, it was another very good day in which we enjoyed the best of the weather. Tomorrow will be one of longest days - we have over 70 miles to do to get up to Fort William.

Day 13 - Through Ayrshire to Arran

2008-07-03T20:25:00.010+01:00

From Kirkconnel to Brodick (route)

Had an enjoyable stay in Kilkconnel with Yvonne Stuart who runs a 4000 acre estate. Our B & B included fishing rights for salmon and sea trout. Time constraints prevented us from taking full advantage and we were also out of season for the deer stalking. We did manage a trip into town to experience the local scene of a depressed open cast mining community. Needless to say, we found no real ales, but made do with Belhaven Best.

Our ride today took us through the open cast coal mining, gradually downhill towards the Ayrshire coastal plain. We discovered that Ayrshire county council are most economical in their use of road signs, so we were forced to ask for directions from a local farm labourer who was tending his neaps and tatties. He was delighted to abandon his toils and to advise us of our route - not only for the next 5 miles but also for the remainder of our journey to John O'Groats. We had a prolonged conversation with Jim Corbett (unrelated to the famous Jim Corbett, the tiger-shooter in India), covering of range of subjects. One in particular has caused some worry - that of the Scottish Midge. Jim's advice was never to stop cycling once you get past Larig, as the midges at this time of year would drive us to insanity. Something to look forward to.

Tea was taken in a pub in Tarbolton, where Burns and his friends formed a debating club called the Bachelor's Club. Although several other customers had started on the McEwans Export, we abstemiously stayed on the Liptons and took a fruit scone to sustain us.

We arrived at the coast near Irvine, amongst several large chemical and pharmaceutical factories, and numerous golf courses - being close to Troon. Hooked up with a coastal cycleway which wiggled along the Irish Sea with views across to Arran and possibly to the Mull of Kintyre (although the visibility was not brilliant).

We got to Ardrossan in good time and took our lunch in the ferry cafe waiting for our 3pm ferry. Spent the afternoon doing the crossword, rehydrating and mentally preparing ourselves for the next leg of our journey.

A mere 50 mile day, and also the least amount of climb on a single day so far. Don't think it will get any easier than this.

Day 12 - Into Burns Country

2008-07-02T20:02:00.009+01:00

Longtown to Kirkconnel (route)

It was a strange stay at the K & K Ranch. We were hansomely appointed to a comodious luxury apartment but had to share a bathroom/toilet with the many other guests, mostly single male and extremely uncommunicative. Hill Junior caused great consternation by asking for a bowl of cereal IN ADDITION TO A WHOLE BOWL OF CANNED GRAPEFRUIT SEGMENTS! It was forcibly explained by one of the K's through clenched teeth that it was normally not permitted but that a special dispensation would be granted for cyclits. The cereal bowl and spoon were then grudgingly retrieved from the locked cabinet. The rest of the breakfasting guests cowered in silence munching their stale toast.

Thus nourished we set off and soon crossed the Scottish border at Gretna only stopping to check out a reserve venue for this year's comming nuptial event. We took a coastal backroad along the edge of the Solway Firth with fine views across to the Lake District particulary Skiddaw.
As we worked our way westwards there were also views of Criffel, scene of an epic mountaineering feat by Hill Senior together with Malcolm, Jim and Rufus a few years ago. this peak also gives its name to a locally produced beer.

We were now firmly in Burns country and passed several of his monuments and souvenir shops stocked with his memorabilia.

The Scottish National Trust royally supplied us with tea and cake (coffee & walnut) at Caerlaverock Castle which was owned by the Maxwell family. Despite its claim to be impregnable it surrended several times to approaching English armies. From the castle, we followed the estuary of the river Nith up to Dumfries. This fine city supplies biking equipment to replace items left behind at previous overnight stays and also tasty made to order sandwiches. But its real attraction was a street preacher warning all of the dangers of loose sexual morals.

Other warnings received were of the perils of riding on the A76. Fortunately our knowledgeable guide, Phil Horsley, had described a route that took us on all the minor roads. Indeed as he states 'This was fine wheeling county, low on traffic, wildlife close on hand, wilderness on the horizon and the occasional skirl of bagpipes drifting from upstairs windows'. We can accurately vouch for all except for the bagpipes.

When we reached Keir Mill, the birthplace of Kirkpatrick Macmillan who invented the pedal cycle we reverently, in a mark of respect, ate our sandwiches leaning against somebody's garden wall. Shortly afterwards we entered Penpont whose only pub "The Volunteer" was closed. However close at hand was a welcoming cafe/post office where we were treated to warming tea and scones.

Our guides route took us through the grounds of Drumlanrig Castle which we read is haunted by the ghost of Lady Anne Douglas walking with her head in her hands. From there it was steadily uphill alongside the river Nith now much smaller than at Dumfries. To our expert eyes it seemed an ideal river for trout and salmon. As we rose up the valley we had good views of the Southern Uplands stretching into the distance - this corner of Scotland is entrancingly beautiful and almost unpopulated.

Overall we had another good day, with its contrasts of the Solway Firth, the Nith estuary, the city of Dumfries and the upper Nith valley.

Day 11 - Through the Lake District

2008-07-01T20:50:00.008+01:00

Outgate to Longtown (route)

After a deep sleep, uninterrupted by the washerwoman ghost of Steveney and undisturbed by the noise of an air gun being loosened off at Brear Rabbit and his offspring, we were served an excellent breakfast by Tom & Janet and given a tour of their estate. Unfortunately the pressure of time prevented us from assisting Tom with his stone wall repair and so we set off in glorious sunshine towards Ambleside. Many thanks to Tom and Janet for their hospitality and putting up with the smell of sweaty lycra.

We avoided the hoi-poloi of Ambleside and headed North past Grasmere and uphill to the dramatic pass of Dunmail Rise. Compared to yesterday, the climb wasn't too bad, but it was long and slow (of course, this was due to today's hot weather conditions - if it had been cooler, then...). After the summit we had a great backroad around the quiet side of Thirlmere (where Manchester gets its water). In today's weather this seemed like the Mediterranean/Riviera!

Had morning tea in the Horse and Farrier (Threlkeld), below Blencathra, in company with the visiting Lancastrian Ladies Golf team who claimed that they were about to trounce their Cumbrian rivals.

Afterwards our route coincided with the C2C cycle route which seemed to be very popular. We even overtook some cyclists who claimed that their slow progress was due to the desire to observe in detail the countryside including studying recumbent sheep.

Had a great ride out from through Mungrisedale and Mossdale past Carrock Fell. Great views back towards the Lakes, and fantastic vista towards Carlisle once we got to the top.

Lunch was a ham sandwich in a tea shop in Hesket Newmarket. Unfortunately the Old Crown was closed which our guide reliably informs us is in combination with a co-operatively owned brewery behind (apparently dividends are paid in beer). We had to make do instead with orange juice, but shortly afterwards, we stopped at the Bridge End Inn in Bridge End which turned out to be our first non-real ale pub. Had to make do with John Smith's. We hope that this is not a sign of things to come.

The last section took us through Carlisle, with its fine red sandstone buildings, including its castle. We made it to Longtown, just shy of the Scottish border, ready for tomorrow's invasion.

Today's profile shows the big climb up Dunhail Raise, and also the high point near Carrock Fell. Excellent weather today, and beautiful scenery. Hoping for more of the same tomorrow.

Day 10 - From Lancashire into Cumbria

2008-07-01T20:30:00.007+01:00

Dunsop Bridge to Outgate (route)

Monday was an excellent day - one of the best so far. We knew we had a climb out of the Forest of Bowland towards Lancaster, and so we stoked up on Mrs Whittaker's breakfast fare during which we were entertained by a lecture on the habits of the Hen Harrier from Jim the resident RSPB birds-of-prey officer.

Climbed up through the Trough of Bowland in cloudy but dry weather with spectacular views which confirmed that this is really one of the most delightful corners of Lancashire. After the second big climb we reached a vista of the complete North Lancashire coastline stretching from the Lake District down to as far as Blackpool.

After a steep descent into the City of Lancaster we took our morning tea in a cafe on the main pedestrian drag, and then headed North across the river Lune and then along the Lancaster Canal towards Carnforth. The canal follows the coastline, but along a high enough contour to give great views across Morecambe Bay. We were not tempted to shortcut our route and cycle across as the tide was in.

Took our lunch in glorious sunshine at 'the Wheatsheaf at Beetham' where we were served refreshing rehydration fluids from Jennings (Cumberland Ale). Our afternoon seemed on paper to be an easy 20 or so miles to Hawkshead, and indeed the first 5 of these were pleasantly passed along the flat marsh ground at the head of Morecambe Bay. Hill Senior says that one of the birds we saw was a Marsh Harrier - or was this morning's breakfast lecture on his mind? Thereafter, the going got tougher as we started to get into the Southern Lake District - cycling up and down a never-ending series of switchbacks towards Bowness. At last through a gap in the trees we spotted the waters of Windermere and were soon down awaiting the ferry across to its west side.

Once across, we climbed steeply through Far Sawhrey and Near Sawhrey amid hoardes of tourists who had been visiting Beatrix Potter's home. From Hawkshead it was just a couple more miles to a small place called Outgate, which is current residence of the ex-Governor of the British Virgin Islands, "Shoes", and his wife "Dragon Lady". They kindly plied us with locally brewed Hawskhead Red and Gold Ales and fed us royally on local fare including a delicious tart made with rhubarb from their kitchen garden. Many thanks for a very pleasant evening.

Overall this day had quite a bit of climbing, especially in the morning. Somehow our GPS does not give full justice to the multitudinous ups and downs we faced in the afternoon.

Day Nine - From Cheshire into Lancashire

2008-06-30T11:02:00.003+01:00

Adlington to Dunsop Bridge (route)

Wrote this last night, in the pub, watching the football. Pictures, maps and profile to follow if we ever get somewhere with a decent internet connection.

After a pleasant stay in the company of Cycling Widows, and also with Georgina and Darren, we left Adlington in grey skies heading North on A-roads towards Manchester.

A local guide and cycling enthusiast had kindly provided a route that threaded through the outskirts of Greater Manchester, with only seventy three traffic lights to negotiate. It also constituted a scenic tour of Hyde, Dukinfield (see picture of this famous Roundhead leader), Oldham and Rochdale, with several spectacular examples of municipal town hall architecture.

There were numerous exciting vistas of decrepid run-down abandoned mill architecture, alongside canals brimming with fish, reeds, and abandoned supermarket trolleys.

After leaving Rochdale, we headed North up and over a moorland pass to Bacup. The rain intensified and despite putting on our wet weather gear, got steadily worse. So much so, that our brave heros decided to shelter in the first available building which, by chance, happened to be the Deerplay Inn (a Thwaites pub). In order to legitimise our shelter we were forced to eat locally made hot beef sandwiches and drink some of their best bitter.

By the time we emerged, the rain had stopped and the sun appeared. We had a great descent down towards Burnley and over the M65 (third motorway of the day crossed), towards the countryside of North Lancashire.

At last, in glorious sunshine we found ourselves amid verdant green fields - the Forest of Bowland, with its hills in the background. We had earlier crossed the mighty Ribble on a magnificant sandstone bridge but the Hodder is every bit as beautiful. According to a well informed source (chap next to us in the pub) our Monarch stated "the Hodder valley", in response to the question of whither she would like to retire.

Stopped for a cream tea (not with clotted cream, though) at the Inn in Whitewell, amid a wedding party. Got to relax and read the Sunday papers and then headed on another 2 miles to our destination for the day, Dunsop Bridge, which is (according the Ordnance Survey) the georgraphical centre of Great Britain and it 400 associated islands. In order to emphasise this communications hub, BT have positioned a special phone box on the exact spot.

We have carefully chosen our resting places. Tonight's is no exception as inside there is a picture our landlady, Mrs Whiteker,receiving a cut glass decanter from HRH the Duke of Lancaster. Such a gift is apposite as there is no pub for miles around.

Our profile today is dominated by the big up and down from Rochdale to Burnley.

Day Eight - Onto the Cheshire Plain

2008-06-28T19:29:00.010+01:00

From Westbury to Adlington(route)

Had a fine start to our day. Got going extra early at 8.20 since we (at this stage) know that we have at least 75 miles ahead of us. We are spurred on by thinking of dinner tonight with our wives, and of a rest day on Saturday.

Shropshire countryside was something of a blur as we hurried our way towards Cheshire. But we did notice the Welsh hills in the distance, and felt a pang of regret that we weren't able to cycle up them.

The two most significant events of the morning were (a) re-crossing the river Severn, last seen in a slighly wider form near Chepstow, 3 days ago, thus demonstrating that it really is the longest river in the British Isles; and (b) seeing the Knockin' Shop. Although tempted, these athletes realise that their performance might be affected by a visit and also that they were due to meet their better halves at the end of the day.

Mid morning tea break was taken in Ellesmere, in what appeared to be a day-care centre for geriatrics. There was just room for the slim figures of the authors amid the zimmerframes and walking sticks. Had our first toasted tea cake and fruit scone - does this mean we are "up North"?

Lunch was taken at a pub on the outskirts of Nantwich, who stocked an extensive range of real ales including Weetwood Ales's Best Cask Bitter and Coach House's (Warrington) Dick Turpin. Thus refreshed we proceeded to get lost in Nantwich, having done two laps of the town centre. Once we had found our way, we discovered that Cheshire has the highest proportion of inconsiderate drivers of any county in Britain. It being necessary on several occasions to take evasive action from overtaking 4x4s, impatient white van drivers, etc.

After surviving several near misses we escaped down the back roads towards Goostrey and stumbled across this iconic Cheshire landmark, which tracks stellar objects moving at the speed of light, including end-to-end cyclists such as ourselves.

After only 83 miles we enter the bounds of Adlington, Cheshire, where Hill Senior has his principal residence, and lo, welcoming us was this banner, reading "Welcome, You R nearly 1/2 Way".

As we write this, we have been relaxing for a full 24 hours, girding ourselves for the next 11 days of cycling which will take us to John O'Groats. Such relaxation has been ably assisted by excellent food and fine wines amid the company of cycling widows (of both Senior and Junior), together with the company of society couple-to-be, Mr. Darren Brooker and his financee, Miss Georgina Hill. We regret that we are not resting for another day or two, but tomorrow we must set out to continue our journey.

Day Seven - More Border Country

2008-06-26T22:21:00.009+01:00

From Staunton-on-Wye to Westbury (route)

Both the Hills slept well after a sumptuous feast at Il Trattoria de Enriques y Szuszana, which featured Bife del Casa di Hereford con Pudim del Yorkshire. Washed down with copious vino del Concho y Toro. The dessert course featured a delicious Pudim del Pane y Mantega. We also enjoyed tales from the British Raj circa 1947 and Devonian exploits. After an excellent breakfast wearing our pristine, recently laundered lycra, we felt able to award the Rosette of Best B & B so far. Apparently this has nothing to do with the cost, but just the excellent food and company. Thank you!

Our research into British Ales had excited the attention of the Wye Valley Brewery, who sent their Meister Brewer, Mr. Jimmy Swan to tag along on the Herefordshire leg to investigate further. Jimmy was chosen not only for his nose, but also because as a successful competitor in L'Etape, he would be able (just) to keep pace with these two finely tuned athletes.

Set off in good weather with forecast for worsening conditions en route. Made good progress through beautiful Herefordshire farming country, nearly to Lyonshall, where the society wedding of the year will be taking place in early September (Miss Georgina Hill marrying Mr Darren Brooker). The presence of an additional cyclist spurred on our two intrepid explorers by providing scintillating conversation and encouragement to laggards at the tail end.

Crossed three principal rivers today - the Arrow, the Lugg (the border between Herefordshire and Shropshire?) and the Clun. Only pictures of some of these are displayed because through the beads of perspiration they all started to look the same. Despite this, we were able to appreciate many fine houses of Border Oak construction.

Herefordshire/Shropshire would indeed be a fine place to live, if only they had some functioning tea shops. Both Brampton Bryan and Bucknell promised delicious tea stops, however it appears that the owners were unaware of our progression, and had decided to go on holiday/sell their premises instead. After being knocked back from our second tea shop we decided that enough was enough, and dismounted to take an alfresco picnic of our packed lunch provided by last night's hosts.

Continued our journey into Shropshire, where we passed through Hopton Castle. During the Civil War, this was where Colonel Samuel More with 30 fellow Parlimentarians held out against a siege by 500 Royalists, for three weeks. On surrender, all were shot. After Hopton Castle, weather conditions worsened - so severe that even Jimmy felt the need to put on protective clothing.

Despite this protection, the need to dry out and also de-tank forced us to enter the Powis Arms and to continue our research into real ales of Britain. "Champion Beer of Britain" award-holding brewery, Hobsons, supplied us with slightly more than one pint of their Bitter. Local dairy farmers were assembled to greet us and to advise us of the economics of Jersey cows.

We passed through Bishop's Castle where our trusty guide, Phil Horsley evidently lived a dissolute life, having "One Hundred Memories of being served by John Roberts in the Three Tuns". He also advised us "that the landscape is as varied as a good salad" (Nicoise, Russian, Caesar?).

Infused with dutch courage from our beer tasting we boldly decide to take on the ultimate challenge of ascending Stiperstones in pouring rain. Our legs are burning but we manage to keep pedaling with one thing in mind - the prospect of a warm cup of tea and yet more cake at the top - named "The Bog". Here we are welcomed by a bickering married couple in a chilly, drafty old schoolhouse who serve us gargantuan sized slabs of cake.

At this point, Jimmy has to head back to his base. A mere 40+ miles away, on top of the 50+ he's already clocked up. I suppose he wouldn't count those as they were sub-25 miles an hour with frequent breaks for photos, map-reading, de-tanking and breath-recuperation.

We proceed thankfully downhill towards our B&B, now encumbered with maximum bad weather gear. Our B&B in Aston Rogers is reached well before 5pm. We will have to pay for this short day tomorrow!

Day Six - Up the Welsh Marches

2008-06-25T22:07:00.009+01:00

From Chepstow to Staunton-on-Wye (route)

After yesterdays flat traverse today was always going to be harder. Still there are always opportunities to make life even harder! So we decided to eschew the scenic low level route along the Wye valley past Tintern in favour of the stiff climb across the top via Trellech in order to warm up the tired muscles as well as enjoying the spectacular views.

On reaching Monmouth we crossed the river Monnow with its fine example of 'the only surviving two storey fortified bridge in Britain'. Hill Junior was underwhelmed at this edifice pictured alongside. Still at least Monmouth could provide a decent cup of tea and of course cake for our mid morning break.

Monmouth is also famous as the birth place of Henry V who as our elequent gude, Phil Horsley, pen is famous for his 'once more unto the breach, dear friends' speech. Apparently Freddie Mercury also Bohemian Rhapsody here.

Suitably swilling with Earl Grey and stuffed with carrot cake we cycled up he delightful Dore Valley. This is called the Golden Valley by those who ignorantly think that Dore means D'Or rather than being derived from the Welsh Dwr meaning water. The Dore valley is also renowned for its castles built by the Welsh Marcher Lords such as Grosmont pictured here with Hill Junior in the foreground wondering why on earth he invited his father to accompany him.

Luncheon is served at the Neville Arms close to Abbeydore and washed down with two excellent pints of Butty Bach brewed by Jimmy Swan at the Wye Valley Brewery. Thus fueled we proceed further up the Dore Valley with its views of Hay Bluff over to the west.

Once we reach Dorstone we do an abrupt right turn up and over Dorstone Hill and down into the Wye valley. It's a 1-in-4 double chevron, but no problem for either Hill (albeit at a snail's pace). Finally we cross the Wye again and reach our destination in Staunton-on-Wye where we are staying with Hill Senior's sister and brother-in-law - Susan & Henry.

They maintain the tradition of providing excellent tea and two types of cake. For tea, we're joined by Herefordshire local, Ms. Gill Bullock (wife of the aforementioned brewer) and the recently arrived Anna. They have forgone the world-renowned Wellington Duck Race in order to greet these two sweaty lejoggers as they whizz through Herefordshire.

Todays profile shows a steep drop into Monmouth and then a steady climb up the Dore valley + the final up-and-down Dorstone hill.

Day Five - out of Somerset and into Wales

2008-06-24T18:43:00.013+01:00

From Westhay to Chepstow (route)

Started our day in beautiful sunshine, and after a warm-up climb, we stayed mostly along the flat. We are both feeling painfully weary in the legs when going uphill so we are very glad to have an easy day.

The Somerset scenery is excellent - great views of the Mendips and lots of golden limestone buildings. We head towards Cheddar Gorge where we join an old railway line that used to run from Cheddar to Clevedon. It's a bit bumpy in places but good to be away from the traffic and on the relatively flat.

At Axbridge, our railway line stops - so we do too - there's a pretty market square with an old-looking timber framed building. A pasty is purchased for future consumption but we forget to eat it and it is now in the bin at our B & B.

The railway line cycleway starts up again after Axbridge, and takes us around the Mendips. Especially enjoyed cycling through a pitch black tunnel with the way lit by cats eyes.

Morning tea is taken in Congresbury outside a little bakery. One doughnut each - Hill Senior has cream, Hill Junior has jam. Mmmmm. Picked up some Cheddar cheese sandwiches for lunch (the only option really for today).

From Congresbury we head to Clevedon and then along some quiet backroads in the shadow of the M5. Apparently according to our hallucinating guide, Phil Horsley we are enjoying a "Diorama of moving vegetation". Fortunately we happen upon this excellent pub called the Black Horse in Clacton in Gordano. We've not even had lunch yet but we can't resist another couple of pints of Butcombe bitter amid the office workers quoting 3 letter acronyms at each other.

Lunch is taken in the lee of the Avonmouth road bridge (where the M5 crosses the river Avon). We gorge (sorry!) on Cheddar cheese baguettes and then head across the river into Gloucestershire.

We don't spend too long in Gloucestershire - navigating our way around the outskirts of Bristol and towards the Severn bridge. We've heard that some lejoggers like to stop halfway across the Severn bridge and wee into the Severn. It's obviously become a bit of a problem as there were several Severn bridge patrolmen waiting in the cycle lane ready to pounce on any such misdemeanors. Not that we were so tempted!

We then successfully and seamlessly traversed our third major river, the Wye, which along with the Severn and the Avon completes our 'Jour de Trois Rivieres'.

By this time we were gagging for our tea break so made a slight detour down into Chepstow. Hill Junior was concerned with the choice of cafe but had to admit that the Rainbow Cafe serves excellent teas and sumptuous cakes at bargain prices.

Our B&B at St Arvens is just past Chepstow racecourse where our hosts Rodney and Elizabeth ply us with much needed liquid refreshment and Radox bath salts.

Today was a blissfully flat day which can be verified by perusal of the graph below. The only hill of any significance was at Chepstow at the very end of our day.

Day Four - out of Devon, into Somerset

2008-06-23T19:30:00.007+01:00

From Crediton to Westhay (route)

Got going at 9.15, and headed out of Crediton into the hills. Not long after leaving Crediton we were overtaken by three lejoggers who we had previously met in Launceston. Weather is fine - sunny and warm. Made good progress to Thorverton (a picture postcard Devon village) and then over the river Exe to the first of Hill Senior's Devon residences (circa late 1950s) in Silverton.

Next stop is Cullompton for Hill Senior's Devon residence number 2, but not before we've climbed our first single chevron of the day out of Bradnich. We take morning tea, along with a couple of home made jammy dodgers. Although not originally from these parts, these were made in Devon.

After tea, our journey takes us along the Great Western Canal which runs close to Hill residence number 3 (in Ayshford). We are heading towards Taunton through the last of Devon's hills which our guidebook describes as "lush, heavy and heaving, like Shiva's breasts", although neither of the riders experienced this sentiment. We stop for a picnic lunch in Bradford-on-Tone near the eponymous river, where we wolf down some pasties we had bought from Betty's Pantry in Cullompton - made with Devon beef. We take extra sustenance in the local pub - 2 pints of Exmoor ale (from the brewery in Wivelscombe)

Post lunch we make our way through Taunton and head out along a different canal and into the Somerset levels where there it's blissfully level. We take our afternoon tea in a willow basket weaving museum centre - where the local ladies were selling excellent mammoth sized cakes.

Final section of the day continues across the Somerset levels, up and over various "drains" including "King's Sedgemoor drain". The open flat wetlands are great to cycle through: flat, with wide vistas into the distance (makes a change from being confined in narrow high hedged lanes).

Only problem with today's route is the element of doubt about our mileage calculations. Yesterday we thought it would be 54 miles. It turns out that it was yet another hallucination by the author of our guide Phil Horsley, as we ended up doing 63.

For dinner we meet up with Hill Senior's brother who takes us to an excellent pub for dinner in Catcott with beer from Otter and Buttercombe breweries. Thank you Peter!

Day Three

2008-06-22T21:28:00.005+01:00

From Tintagel to Crediton (approx 60 miles - route here)

Weather - windy and sometimes sunny. Fortunately the wind is blowing in our direction so we got some help up the hills today. Started out at about 9 with a look at King Arthur's Castle - see if you can spot it in this picture. Couldn't see any swords to pull out of stone, so decided to set off, but soon discovered a different sort of challenge - Hill Senior's front wheel had a puncture. After getting that sorted we headed up and out of Tintagel, eager to make progress towards what promised to be our longest day yet.

We struggled up 300 metres of hill, only to discover that the road we had taken ran out - into a farm. Bugger. We discussed carrying on - this would have meant carrying the bikes over the pastures and hedges, but we decided to retrace our steps all the way back down the hill, to take the correct road, back up the 300 metres of same hill. Not a great start, but we were certainly warmed up, and we had a great view back into Tintagel on the descent.

We made good time into Launceston on side roads and then attempted to find a suitable cafe for our mid-morning break (a little later than normal at about noon). Unfortunately Launceston runs a "close everything on Sundays" policy and we had to make do with a dingy back room in a run-down hotel. A posse of fellow end-to-enders were lined up outside waiting for their backup team to provide them sustenance. Like everyone else we have met, they plan to do the whole route in 10 days.

Post-Launceston we followed the old A30 towards Oakhampton, making fast time. Got good views across to Dartmoor - our route is not taking us onto the moor, but we are skirting around the edege.

Lunch was taken on the edge of Oakhampton and then we profited from the Granite Cycle Way alongside an old railway line for 10 minutes of blissful flat cycling. Especially pleased with the excellent viaduct over a particularly nasty looking curtsey (or whatever they're called in Devon).

We head of Oakhampton uphill to Sticklepath and then along a delightful Devon ridge lane, part of which is used by the Two Moors Way. Had our first Devon cream tea in a beautiful village called South Tawton - as yesterday, the tea was taken in a community centre - well, it was the Church House - a recently restored 500 year old building, staffed the local church wardens. Cream tea was of the highest standard, especially the wide range of locally produced jams.

After tea we continued our rapid progress along the ridge, and ended up going through Coleford which was frequented by both the authors at varying times on their Two Moors Way expeditions.

Got into Crediton just before 6pm having done 60+ miles. We have recalculated the mileage for tomorrow and we now know it is 54, not 44 miles. Our B&B is the very same used by Hill Senior and Q on their Two Moors trek.

Our profile today is made more impressive by the extra unnecessary hill!

Day Two

2008-06-21T20:29:00.007+01:00

From St Agnes to Tintagel (approx 47 miles) - look at our route here

Got a good start at 9am after a tasty breakfast courtesy of Maggie, who by the way is selling her B&B for £695k in case you fancy getting away from it all in St. Agnes.
As we set off the weather is grey but there's no rain. Our first mile takes us out of St.Agnes and then down into Blue Hills tin mine, and our first curtsey of the day. This would be at least one chevron, possibly two if it were marked on a map, but we don't have the ordnance survey for this area. By the time Hill Senior had taken this photo, Hill Junior had passed beyond the horizon! This probably says more about the speed of photographer than cyclist.

Morning tea was taken in St.Columb major in a dingy pub who's only other customers made saucy remarks about the handsome lycra clad cyclists.

We push on over minor roads to Padstow (home of Rick Stein's restaurants). Unfortunately our reservation for lunch at "the best fish and chip shop in the country" has been refused on dress code grounds, so we catch the ferry across the River Camel to Rock.

We have to catch the ferry from Padstow lower beach as it is low tide. This involves an obstacle course over rocks, steps, tourists and sand. (and all over my new lovely bike...)

Lunch is taken at Rock - we tick off another of our Cornish delicacies by having a cheese sandwich made with Cornish Yarg. Very posh. Washed down with local Sharp's Ales. Despite the overpowering smell of sweaty lycra, people from the neighbouring tables approach us to regale us with tales of John Betjeman and his mistress. Apparently he's buried nearby.

We spend the afternoon on cross-country backroads, and take our afternoon tea in St. Teath (pronounced "Teth") where no cream teas are available. Instead, we join the 21 year celebration party in the community centre where the (grey haired) locals ply us with tea and buns. On hearing about our trip, several of them press donations onto us - £22.80 is collected in total - thanks!

The final leg to Tintagel has one massive world-beating curtsey. Double chevron both down and up. So steep that we almost have to dismount to go down. But we daren't wimp out and both of us competitively make it down and up the other side (just). In this graph you can see the ups and downs of our day...

Day One

2008-06-20T20:41:00.008+01:00

From Sennen to St. Agnes (approx 40 miles) - See here for a map of our route today.

Good breakfast in Sennen with fresh strawberries grown by John in his post-retirement phase after sorting out a failing school problem in the Scillies.

We set off in drizzle, through tin-mining countryside - at one point we pass Beevor tin mine - which was still open until recently. Apparently they're considering re-opening Cambourne mine due to high commodity prices.

Mid-morning tea break (part of our 3 stop strategy) is taken at Guarnards Inn. From the paraphenalia on the walls this is also the watering hole of a transatlantic rower who came third in a recent race.

Around lunchtime we reach Hayle - home of "Heyl's Kitchen".
We are seduced by signs for the famous Philp's pasty emporium and take a couple of their medium steak (the premier) pasties after queueing for 20 mins, such is their popularity. Liquid sustenance is supplied by the Red River Inn in Gwithian in the form of Doom Bar and Will's Choice.

By this time the scenery has changed from granite to a mixture of rocks from the Devonian Period. The coastline is more eroded and more dramatic.

After our first curtsey (down & up a steep river valley) we take cream tea in Porthtowan, a welcome break from the teeming rain. Suitably refreshed we head up and up and up and then down into St. Agnes, arriving at about 4pm. Total trip time, 7 hours, of which 4 hours was cycling.

Day Zero

2008-06-19T21:31:00.009+01:00

Met up successfully at Penzance station. Weather sunny and breezy. Met a couple of other end-to-enders but they are doing it in 9 days (not our pace).

Took the scenic cycle route out of Penzance to Newlyn - got some great views of St. Michael's Mount.

Passed through a pretty Cornish fishing village called Mousehole (apparently pronounced Muzzell?).

Suddenly encountered steep 1 in 3 hills. Today only two of these - how many tomorrow?

On the way to Land's End we passed a neolithic burial chamber and stone circle. Had to stop and take pictures (for Una's sake).

Got to Land's End after tourists had left for the day but met up with a successfully completed couple of end-to-enders who had got married at Gretna Green on the way. They were received at Land's End with a little clap from their back up team of parents (obviously biking will play an important part in their marriage).

Reached our B&B near Sennen. Our hosts John & Pru served us tea on the veranda overlooking the sea with the sun slowly setting. Took the coastal path into Sennen - saw quite a few surfers out in the cove. The water looks quite inviting although we notice that everyone is wearing wet suits.

The Old Success in Sennen serves St. Austell's ales - we particularly enjoyed one or two pints of Proper Job and also Tribute. The ale is accompanied by Cornish seafood pie, chips and peas. And a little something for dessert - sticky toffee pudding, apple & cinammon pie, served with lashings of clotted cream.

Now the challenge is to walk back along the cliff path in fading light after a few beers. Hopefully you'll hear from us tomorrow.

2008-06-19T10:18:00.002+01:00

And I'm off along the leafy road of Adlington to the station a mere few hundred yards away, then its a cross country train journey down to Penzance taking all day and then meeting up with Hill Junior and cycling 12 miles to our first B&B. Tomorrow is the beginning of a very long journey!

Glad I got you off on time and took the photos as a reminder. By the time you read this you should be already in Cornwall and most probably drinking your first real ale pint with Hill Junior.

2008-06-19T10:06:00.002+01:00

Ready for the off, in a bit of a rush (as usual) train due in 5 minutes. Feeling a bit apprehensive!

2008-06-19T09:58:00.003+01:00

2008-06-19T09:54:00.001+01:00

The Day is Here - 7.40am Last minute change of trousers, much lighter for weight and dark for spillage of pub grub and bike oil!

On the way to Penzance

2008-06-19T09:37:00.002+01:00

Today's the big day. Got going fairly promptly at 7.15 to catch a train from Twickenham to Reading and am now sitting on platform 4 of Reading's station waiting to catch the 10.30 train to Penzance. Thank you to everyone for sponsoring our ride - should help keep us motivated on the dark and stormy days ahead.

Weight Problem & Packing

2008-06-18T15:26:00.003+01:00

I had a weight problem ! Well not me personally although I doubt if Hill Junior could say the same.
I meant that I was carrying too much weight in the pannier bags.
The first packing weighted in at 14.7 kg which felt far too much on the bike. It certainly made a difference up the peaks of the Peak District!
So a radical pruning was called for. Out went the rechargeable batteries for the GPS in favour of disposable ones and out went the spare underwear and any spare clothing. The tool kit was paired back to the minimum. As for high energy foods and Mars bars then these were reluctantly cast aside. The casual trousers were exchanged for a lightweight pair.
The result was a reduction to 11.3 Kg which feels much better.
Now Hill Junior has requested that I carry a charger for our mobiles! So now its 11.4 kg!

Shiny, new, not all plain sailing

2008-06-15T22:07:00.003+01:00

Here's my new bike. Had a good ride on it today - it's definitely much faster than my old Ridgeback. I'll just have to freewheel a bit more so that Hill Senior can keep up.

It's not all been plain sailing though. On the day I picked it up, I had an hour spare to explore Derby. I soon found myself and my new bike on motorway class dual carriageways being overtaken by large lorries at 70mph. Decided that keeping straight and heading for the M1 wasn't the best idea and so was forced to take an unsignposted turning by climbing through a steep wooded embankment at the side of the road to get to an overpass (this was still a dual carriageway, but not quite so bad).

After such an eventful start, I soon had more trouble back in London. My rear wheel's freewheel started making an nasty clicking noise. This has necessitated huge hassle trying to get it repaired before the big ride, but now is all sorted.

Now it is just a matter of breaking in the saddle. Apparently this is war between the leather on my rear with the leather on the saddle. The saddle has won a couple of early rounds but I think I've cracked it (sic) now and had a 50 mile spin earlier today without any nasty side effects.

A 1000 Miles Cross Section of British Cuisine and Ales

2008-06-15T09:48:00.002+01:00

I’m hoping that this 1000 mile cross section of Great Britain will provide an interesting selection of regional foods as well as of course beers. My list of foods so far is not very extensive being mostly cheeses. If you can think of others please add them to the list: -.

Cornwall- Yarg, Pilchards, Pasties, Cream Teas, Cornish Caudle Chicken Pie, Baked Mackerel with Gooseberry Sauce

Devon- Cream Teas, Ice Cream, Beef, Cider, Barnstable Fair Pears, Devonshire Junket. Devonshire Splits

Somerset- Cheddar, Brie, Cider, Somerset Apple Cake, Bath Bun, Sally Lunn Cake, Bath Chaps (Pigs Cheek)

Gloucestershire: - Old Spot Pork, Double Gloucester, Gloucester Cheese and Ale (Welsh Rarebit), Oldbury Tarts, Gloucester Squab Pie (lamb), Eels and Elvers

Herefordshire: - Beef, Orchard Fruits

Shropshire: - Shropshire Blue Cheese, Shropshire Fidget Pie, Rabbit Pie & Shropshire Pie, Loin of Pork & Cabbage Cake, Shrewsbury Biscuits, and Soul Cakes

Cheshire: - Cheese and Diary products, Chester Buns, Chester Cake, Chester Pudding and Cheshire Pork Pye

Lancashire: -Manchester Pudding, Manchester Tart, Lancashire Hot Pot, Bury Black puddings, Eccles cakes, Cheese, tripe, fagots, Boiled Pressed Tongue, Brisket, Lancs Meat & Potato Pie, Goosenargh Cakes, Parkin, Gingerbread, Golden Vegetable Soup, Simmel Cake, Patsy’s Leg, Treacle Toffee

Cumbria: - Cumberland Sausage, Lamb, Kendal Mint Cake, Shepherds Pie, Derwentwater Duck (with Cumberland Sauce), Cumberland Rum Butter, Char, Damson & Apple Tansy, Westmorland Pepper Cake and Cumberland Rum Nicky

Scotland: - Beef from Galloway, Haggis, Cullen Skink, Scotch Broth, Cock-a-Leekie, Lentil Broth, Shortbread, Oatcakes, Bannocks, Highland Game Soup, Aberdeen Angus Beef, Venison, Howtowdie, Poachers Pie, Scotch Eggs, Scotch Pancakes, Whim Wham, Dundee Cake, Dundee Marmalade, Oysters, Mussels and various West Coast shell fish plus of course the range of East Coast fish including Salmon, Smokies and kippers.

There must be loads more so please help……

As for Real Ales then we shall be exploring as we proceed up the country and developing our list which may be updated daily by Hill Junior. Hopefully there will be lunchtime opportunities for our research as well as the evenings!

New kit

2008-05-28T22:09:00.002+01:00

Obviously couldn't dream of doing this ride on old kit. Need new stuff. And so in January I ordered a new custom built complete bike from mercian cycles. After what seems like forever, I heard last week that the bike has been built and is ready for collection. I'll be heading up to Derby on Friday to pick it up - pictures to follow!

New Technology

2008-05-16T21:29:00.000+01:00

I'd like to be able to stay in touch and update this blog throughout our lejog ride. Unfortunately none of the existing laptops/devices that I have quite fit the bill, so I have invested in something new. I thought about picking up an iPhone, but decided that it'd be better to get a mini laptop so I'll be able to post pictures from my dad's digital camera.

When it rains

2008-05-08T23:21:00.001+01:00

Best to get yourself a huge cappuccino to warm yourself up

Raising Money for Charity

2008-05-08T23:08:00.001+01:00

I have to admit that I am doing this ride mainly for fun. It's going to be a break from work and a chance to do some father-son bonding. However, I would like to raise some money for charity along the way, and so I've setup a justgiving site. Please give generously.

Welcome

2008-05-08T22:17:00.000+01:00

Welcome to our blog. My father (Hill Senior) and I are planning to ride from Lands End to John O'Groats over three weeks starting on June 19th 2008. This blog will record our progress. If you're interested in how we get on then stay tuned!